Replacing an RV rubber roof is one of the bigger DIY projects you can tackle on your rig — but it's well within reach for a motivated owner with a free weekend and the right materials. Done correctly, a full roof replacement protects your RV for the next 10–20 years and costs a fraction of what a dealership or RV repair shop would charge for the same job.
This guide walks you through the entire process from start to finish, including how per-linear-foot pricing works so you can budget accurately before you order.
What You'll Need: Tools and Materials
Tools
- Utility knife and extra blades
- Putty knife or scraper
- Paint roller and tray (9-inch)
- Paint brush (3-inch, for edges and corners)
- Tape measure
- Chalk line
- Broom and shop vacuum
- Rubber mallet
- Cordless drill and bits
- Ladder tall enough to access the roof safely
- Safety harness (strongly recommended for coaches over 10 feet tall)
- Knee pads
Materials
- EPDM or TPO roofing membrane (see sizing section below)
- Bonding adhesive (compatible with your membrane type)
- Lap sealant (Dicor or equivalent, compatible with membrane)
- Primer (if required by adhesive manufacturer)
- Roof vent and fixture covers (or new gaskets for existing)
- Termination bar and screws (for front and rear edge)
- Butyl tape (for sealing under termination bars)
- Cleaner/prep solution (specified by adhesive manufacturer)
Understanding Per Linear Foot Pricing
RV roofing membrane is sold by the piece — a fixed width × a specified length — not by the square foot. Before ordering, measure your roof length from front cap to rear cap and add 2 feet for overhang. That's your minimum order length.
We carry two width options depending on the product: 9'6" wide and 9.5' wide EPDM and TPO rolls. Most RV roofs are 8–8.5 feet wide, so both widths provide enough coverage with room for edge wrapping. A narrower 8.5' wide TPO option is also available for rigs with tighter width requirements.
Note on shipping: Roofing membrane is a large, heavy product that typically ships via freight carrier rather than standard parcel delivery. Freight shipping is included in the listed price — there are no hidden shipping charges — but plan for a freight delivery appointment rather than a standard doorstep drop.
EPDM Pricing — Dicor EPDM Plus (9'6" Wide, Polar White)
| Size | Price (Free Shipping) |
|---|---|
| 9'6" x 20' | $769.99 |
| 9'6" x 25' | $849.99 |
| 9'6" x 30' | $959.99 |
| 9'6" x 35' | $1,089.99 |
| 9'6" x 40' | $1,199.99 |
| 9'6" x 45' | $1,319.99 |
| 9'6" x 50' | $1,499.99 |
Shop Dicor EPDM Plus at The RV Surplus →
TPO Pricing — Dicor DiFlex (9.5' Wide)
Available in Polar White, Dove White, and Tan. Priced the same regardless of color.
| Size | Price (Free Shipping) |
|---|---|
| 9.5' x 20' | $599.99 |
| 9.5' x 25' | $659.99 |
| 9.5' x 30' | $739.99 |
| 9.5' x 35' | $799.99 |
| 9.5' x 40' | $899.99 |
| 9.5' x 45' | $999.99 |
| 9.5' x 50' | $1,099.99 |
Shop Dicor TPO DiFlex 9.5' Wide at The RV Surplus →
TPO Pricing — Dicor DiFlex (8.5' Wide)
Available in Polar White, Dove White, Tan, and Gray. Note: not all size/color combinations are in stock — check availability before ordering.
| Size | Price (Free Shipping) |
|---|---|
| 8'6" x 20' | $534.99 |
| 8'6" x 25' | $619.99 |
| 8'6" x 30' | $699.99 |
| 8'6" x 35' | $749.99 |
| 8'6" x 40' | $819.99 |
Shop Dicor TPO DiFlex 8.5' Wide at The RV Surplus →
Always order 1–2 feet beyond your roof length to allow for front and rear overhang. Factor in adhesive, lap sealant, and primer on top of membrane cost — a complete installation typically adds $50–$150 in consumables depending on roof size.
Step-by-Step: How to Replace an RV Rubber Roof
Step 1: Clear the Roof and Inspect the Substrate
Remove everything from the roof — antennas, vent covers, solar panels, and any other accessories. Take photos before removing anything so you remember the original placement. Once the roof is clear, inspect the decking underneath the old membrane for soft spots, rot, or water damage. Press firmly across the entire surface. Any soft areas need to be repaired or replaced before the new membrane goes down — a new roof over a compromised deck will fail prematurely.
Step 2: Remove the Old Membrane
Starting at one end, use your putty knife and utility knife to cut and peel back the old membrane. Work carefully around vents, AC units, and other penetrations. Remove all the old adhesive residue from the decking using a scraper — the new adhesive needs a clean, solid surface to bond to. This step is tedious but critical. Don't rush it.
Step 3: Remove and Inspect All Roof Fixtures
Remove all vent covers, plumbing vents, AC units, and any other roof-mounted fixtures. Inspect the gaskets and flanges on each. This is a good time to replace worn gaskets, upgrade vent covers, or address any fixture that has been leaking. Reinstalling new membrane around old failing fixtures defeats the purpose of the replacement.
Step 4: Clean and Prep the Roof Deck
Sweep and vacuum the entire roof surface. Wipe down with the cleaning solution specified by your adhesive manufacturer — typically a solvent cleaner that removes remaining adhesive residue, dust, and oils. Allow to dry completely before proceeding. Do not skip this step — contamination under the membrane causes adhesion failure.
Step 5: Measure and Cut the Membrane
Unroll the membrane on a clean, flat surface (a driveway works well). Measure and cut to length, leaving 4–6 inches of overhang on both the front and rear edges. This overhang wraps over the drip edge and gets secured with termination bars. For width, the standard 8.5-foot roll typically covers most RV roofs — if your roof is wider, you'll need to plan a seam.
Step 6: Dry-Fit the Membrane
Before applying any adhesive, roll the membrane out on the roof and position it correctly. Confirm the overhang is even front and rear. Mark the centerline of the roof with a chalk line and align the membrane to it. Once you're satisfied with the positioning, fold the membrane back on itself lengthwise (like closing a book) so you can apply adhesive to the first half.
Step 7: Apply Bonding Adhesive
Using your paint roller, apply bonding adhesive to both the roof deck and the back of the folded membrane simultaneously — most adhesives require coating both surfaces. Work in sections and follow the manufacturer's open time instructions carefully. Open time is the window between adhesive application and when the membrane must be pressed down — too short and it won't bond; too long and it loses tack.
Important: Keep adhesive away from the area within 3 inches of all seams, edges, and penetrations — those areas get lap sealant, not contact adhesive.
Step 8: Bond the First Half of the Membrane
When the adhesive has reached the correct tack (typically when it's no longer shiny but still slightly sticky — check the manufacturer's instructions), carefully unfold the first half of the membrane onto the adhesive-coated deck. Work from the center out toward the edges, smoothing as you go to eliminate air pockets and wrinkles. Use your rubber mallet or a hand roller to press the membrane firmly into the adhesive across the entire bonded area.
Step 9: Bond the Second Half
Fold back the second half of the membrane, apply adhesive to the deck and the back of the membrane, wait for proper tack, and bond the second half the same way — working center to edge, smoothing and rolling firmly.
Step 10: Trim and Secure the Edges
Trim any excess membrane overhang to a consistent 2–3 inches beyond the roof edge. Apply butyl tape along the front and rear edges where the membrane wraps over the drip edge, then press the membrane down firmly over it. Secure with aluminum termination bar screwed into the front and rear fascia every 6–8 inches. This locks the edge of the membrane in place and prevents wind uplift.
Step 11: Reinstall Roof Fixtures
Reinstall all vents, covers, AC units, and other fixtures. For each penetration, use the gaskets or flanges specified for your membrane type — EPDM gaskets on EPDM membrane, TPO-compatible flanges on TPO. Never mix materials at penetration points.
Step 12: Apply Lap Sealant to All Seams and Penetrations
This is the most important finishing step. Apply a continuous, smooth bead of lap sealant around every penetration (vents, AC base, plumbing stacks, antennas), along all edges where the membrane meets the sidewall, and over the termination bars. Use self-leveling lap sealant on horizontal surfaces and non-sag sealant on vertical surfaces. Tool the sealant smooth with a wet finger or putty knife.
Work methodically around the entire perimeter and every single penetration — one missed spot is all it takes for water to find its way in.
Step 13: Inspect the Entire Roof
Walk the roof slowly and inspect every inch of sealant. Look for gaps, thin spots, or areas where sealant didn't fully adhere. Touch up as needed. Allow the sealant to cure fully (typically 24–48 hours) before exposing the roof to rain.
Step 14: Reinstall Accessories and Test
Reinstall antennas, solar panels, and any other accessories you removed. Run water over the roof with a garden hose and check the interior ceiling for any signs of moisture. Pay particular attention to vent areas, the front cap, and the rear corner seals.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Not repairing the substrate first: New membrane over a rotted deck is money wasted — fix soft spots before you start
- Skipping the dry fit: Once adhesive is down, repositioning is nearly impossible. Always dry-fit before committing
- Wrong adhesive open time: Bonding adhesive applied too wet or too dry won't hold — follow the manufacturer's instructions exactly
- Missing penetration sealant: Every roof penetration is a potential leak point. Seal all of them, every time
- Using incompatible materials: EPDM sealant on TPO membrane (or vice versa) will fail — always match products to your membrane type
- Working in direct sun on a hot day: Adhesive open times shorten dramatically in heat. Work in the morning or on a cloudy day when possible
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to replace an RV rubber roof?
A full replacement typically takes 1–2 full days for a first-timer on a standard travel trailer. A 40-foot Class A can take 2–3 days. Having a helper speeds things up significantly, especially for handling the membrane during the bonding steps.
Do I need to remove the old membrane before installing new?
Yes, in almost all cases. Installing over a failing membrane traps moisture and prevents proper adhesion. The only exception is if a certified installer confirms the existing membrane and substrate are in perfect condition — which is rare in a replacement scenario.
Can I replace my RV roof myself or should I hire a professional?
It's a legitimate DIY project for a patient, detail-oriented owner. The most common DIY failure points are rushing the adhesive application and skipping sealant around penetrations. If you're methodical and follow the process, there's no reason to pay shop labor rates for this job.
How do I know what size membrane to order?
Measure the length of your roof from front cap to rear cap. Add 2 feet for overhang. Order that many linear feet of 8.5-foot wide membrane. If your roof is wider than 8.5 feet, contact us before ordering and we'll help you plan for a seamed installation.
What is the best RV rubber roof material for DIY replacement?
EPDM is the most DIY-friendly option — the adhesive application is forgiving, repair materials are widely available, and the installation process is well-documented. TPO is more durable long-term but requires heat welding for proper seams, which is more difficult for first-timers.
Get Your RV Roofing Materials at The RV Surplus
We carry EPDM and TPO roofing membrane by the linear foot, along with bonding adhesive, lap sealant, termination bar, and everything else you need to complete a full DIY roof replacement — all at discount prices with free shipping to the continental U.S.
Shop RV Rubber Roof at The RV Surplus →
Not sure how much material to order or which products are compatible with your roof type? Call or text us at 574-218-0549 before you buy — we'll help you put together the right order for your specific rig so you're not short on material mid-job.